The Mog Blog

Betting is becoming all too easy

2012-01-16T16:26:00.000Z

It seems in these days of economic hardship, as if getting hold of cash was difficult enough, we are being bombarded with opportunites to lose it just as quickly. How can it be justified to allow betting companies to invade seemingly every waking moment of our lives with an opportunity to place a bet on anything.
Smart phones are obviously an easy route in, but the format has become increasingly sophisticated. In game betting is common place, for example you can pick up the phone just before a free kick or corner is taken in a live football match and bet on whether a goal will be scored, or who will score next. Many of these betting companies will even give you some cash just to get you started.
Is it really wise tempting people who very often cannot afford it into getting into debt on the small chance they might win something?
I think it has all got out of hand and something needs to be done now. It is almost as bad as cigarettes so why not ban ads for betting in the same we have for smoking.

The great parking rip off. Councils should be ashamed of themselves.

2012-01-16T16:09:00.000Z

I was close to losing it this week and all because of parking charges . Is there no end to the wicked things those devious town hall suits conjur up? I'd like to point out that I am a pillar of the community, and wherever possible abide by the local laws like every good citizen should. However, when I come across a plan that is designed purely and simply to generate funds in a devious way, then quite frankly my gloves must come off.
The council in all its wisdom, sees fit to set local parking charges at tariffs that ensure you will never have the correct change with you. And just to make matters worse still, the ticket machine will not supply change of course. So what do you do? You end up throwing away cash and printing out a ticket for a lot more than you need to because you can't leave your car to get change in a shop as someone is bound to ticket your car for not having a parking ticket!
In this day and age getting a machine to provide change would be a simple adjustment however that would mean the council would be out of pocket wouldn't it?

I would really love to know just how much money it makes from funds accrued in this way. Shame on you Enfield you should know better.

Florida's Greatest Food Challenges

2011-12-06T09:39:00.000Z

Forida is known as a place where everything is bigger and better - the theme park rides, the sports and certainly the food. If you're the competitive type, why not check out some of the restaurants below, all of which offer unique challenges for the truly hungry.Whether you're sweltering over the Inferno Soup at Nitally's, chowing down a 48oz steak or eating ice cream from a kitchen sink, you're sure to have a great story to take home with you whether you pass the test or not.

48oz Steak Challenge at Don Shula's Steak House

Launched by former NFL coach Don Shula in 1989, this restaurant chain quickly gained a reputation as one of the best places in Florida to sink your teeth into some prime Angus beef. Each restaurant is themed after the Miami Dolphins' "Perfect Season" that Shula presided over in 1972, when the Dolphins became the only team in NFL history to finish the entire season undefeated.The chain is almost as famous for its 48oz Porterhouse steak, dubbed "The Shula Cut". Holidaymakers who manage to finish all of this titanic T-bone in one sitting are rewarded with induction into the restaurant's 48oz Club, which would certainly provide a few bragging rights back home. However, guests have their work cut out for them if they're planning to beat the record of superfan Taft Parker, who to date has eaten over 175 of the giant steaks - earning a commemorative football from Don Shula himself for his achievement.

Shula's Steak House Orlando, Walt Disney World Dolphin Hotel, 1500 Epcot Resorts Blvd, Lake Buena Vista, Florida 32830 www.donshula.com

Inferno Soup Challenge at Nitally's

If you've got a taste for the spicy stuff, you may have finally met your match at Nitally's Thai-Mexican restaurant in St Petersburg, Florida.This challenge isn't for the faint of heart: the Inferno Soup contains fresh ghost pepper. At over 400 times stronger than Tabasco sauce, it's the hottest chilli known to mankind - in fact, it's so hot the Indian government has reportedly considered using it in non-lethal hand grenades. For good measure, the restaurant throws about a dozen other varieties of pepper, including three kinds of jabanero, into the dish.The owners of Nitally's initially offered a $150 (£96) reward to any steel-tongued guest who can finish the soup in less than 30 minutes, but as of July 2011 not a single customer has managed it - prompting them to raise the jackpot to $800 (£512).

Nitally’s Thai-Mex Cuisine, 2462 Central Ave, St Petersburg, Florida 33712 www.nitallys.com

The Kitchen Sink at Jaxson's Ice Cream Parlour

Americans love to round off a meal with a good ice cream sundae, and entering this classically-styled parlour in Dania Beach, Florida is like stepping back in time to the age of soda jerks, Cadillacs and rock 'n' roll. There's also a dessert on the menu that's a meal in itself and then some. The Kitchen Sink isn't just a clever name - it really is served in a full-size kitchen sink, plumbing and all. The servers behind the counter are invited to let their imaginations run wild putting everything they can think of into the colossal sundae, with toppings including marshmallow, chocolate, strawberries, cherries, fudge and sprinkles.

In this case there's no reward for finishing the food besides the satisfaction of a job well done, but at $12.95 (£8) per person - for a minimum of four diners - it's a whole lot of ice-cream for your cash.

Jaxson’s Ice Cream Parlour, 128 South Federal Highway, Dania Beach, Florida 33004 www.jaxsonsicecream.com

I'm a Guardian travel writing panelist now

2011-10-21T16:58:00.004+01:00

I recently took part in an online Q&A session for The Guardian as part of their panel, giving advice to potential new travel writers. It was an intense lively session proving to me there is no shortage of people still seeing travel writing as a potential career. Hearing so many different views on the subject, I came to realise how difficult it must be for anybody faced with the prospect of selling their ideas to editors.
There is sadly, no easy route. You must be prepared for rejection many times over, simply because whatever your idea, there will be someone who has no doubt thought of it before you. Either that or like a lot of us, you are the victim of a collective delete of the in box without even a read of a single mail. I discovered this through the power of Outlook and when challenged the reply was "I've been on holiday, it's press day and I've got 140 emails in my in box".
And they call this a profession?
Luckily for many aspiring travel writers, there is an answer and that is the power of the Internet. Blogs are becoming big business as is online travel writing, so do not despair, just do it yourself. After all, if you can prove you have a wide readership, you'll be half way to editng your own travel site.

Virgin’s Premium Economy Class makes ordinary life a lot less ordinary.

2011-10-12T15:43:00.001+01:00

I’ve always harboured a secret sense of loathing towardbusiness and first passengers, although I’d never admit it in public. Theirsmug looks when they get to check in on that red carpet attended to by handpickedairline staff ready with a waiting smile and fresh flowers to ease them throughcheck in is frankly almost too much to bear. They get private lounge access ofcourse, but we don’t get to see that bit thank goodness, just their backs asthey whisk through security using their special fast track passes while we waitin line with the hoards getting ordered to remove our belts and shoes likewe’re about to begin a prison sentence. The smugness returns in the departurelounge of course when they get to board first, and then we have to do the walkof shame filing past them on our way towards the back as they serenely downtheir chilled glasses of bubbly as we fight over hand luggage bin space.

There is however a chance of salvation; an affordableopportunity to at least touch the hem of heaven and take a tentative step ontothat first rung of travel smugness. Thankfully, with Virgin’s Premium Economy,we mortals get the chance to savour just a little bit of that high life for areasonable extra cost.

We get a separate check in for a start. Slight smugnesspoints there. And then we get to board first with the big boys too. Loads ofsmugness points here, because no one else knows which class you’re in until youget on board. The wider, softer seats are very comfy and whilst they may not beflat bed seats, (although they are as wide as many business class seats onother airlines). the extra leg room and spring loaded foot rests allow you somereal stretching room. Now comes the good part. While everyone else shufflespast, you get to sip that envious pre take off drink, and that rattles upbucket loads of smugness points in my book, whilst eating a quality meal off achina dinner service with stainless steel cutlery makes all the difference inthe world.

Of course after an eleven hour flight you just want to getoff and on with your life and fortunately Premium Economy passengers get to getoff first with those big boys again and you can enjoy that final bit ofsmugness when you collect your luggage from the Upper and Premium only carousel. Oh the joy.

I’m a fan of Virgin’s Premium Economy. It’s an excellent choice on so many levels,letting you enjoy many of the trimmings of business travel without it really hurtingyour pocket too much. Now if only wecould get a private lounge.........

The Lot Valley has the Lot. And what a lot it's got!

2011-09-15T09:00:00.002+01:00

I was in the Lot Valley recently and it is a corner of France I've never visited. More to the point, it's a corner of France that many people haven't visited unless of course, they are in the know so to speak. The regulars love it and it's almost a well kept secret. I say almost because now I've found it, it won't be secret any longer.It is chocolate box perfect. A collection of beautiful medieval villages perched on top and around majestic limestone canyons towering over the river below.It's an area of intense beauty, but more than that, it's a pice of authentic south west France that still retains it sense of rural life with prices far below those of its more famous Dordogne neighbour.The Lot has it all, Malbeck wines, canard, fois gras and even tobacco and walnuts.I loved The Lot a lot. And I can't wait to go back there.

Finland and suicides? You have to be kidding!

2011-05-02T18:29:00.000+01:00

On a recent trip to Tampere in Finland, it was pointed out to me that not only do Fins have the highest numbers of suicides in the world but Finland has an extraordinary amount of domestic violence. It is something to do with the long dark winters and high levels of booze consumed. perhaps this is true, but my personal experience was a very positive one. I found them to be charming if a little reserved, hospitable and proud of their nationalality. The Tampere countryside was spectacular squeezed as it is between two huge inland lakes.
Forget the hustle and bustle of Helsinki. Tampere has history (Lenin planned the Russian uprising from there) theatres and some top eateries.
How can you even think of suicide in a such a striking city.

Veuling, a Spanish airline really going places.

2011-01-07T11:58:00.000Z

We do get very attached to aircraft. Particularly when we are in them at 30,000 feet. Just imagine then, how much more intimate a moment you’d have if you were on first name terms?
Elisenda Masanda and I clicked almost instantly. Her smooth yellow tones and XL seats were made all the more attractive by the soft Spanish words that were emanating from her speakers.
Now, I’m all in favour of chocolates and champagne on a first date but somehow when you know that the new object of your affections is quite literally holding your life in her hands well, then it’s a whole new ball game isn’t it.
Sadly, our brief relationship was over before it had really begun, but I knew in my heart we were destined to meet again. And we did, some three days later in Seville airport. There she was, tantalisingly out of reach in the arms of another on her way to Athens, so on the bounce I turned my affections towards Connie Barjara who had a much better set of engines on her anyway.
Before you think I’ve lost all my marbles, let me just say that flying with Vueling makes you think a little differently. It’s an airline that has a refreshingly alternative way about it. It was the first airline to let you choose your seats on booking, it has XL seat options, you can put your boarding pass onto your phone and you can pay using Paypal. Its ground breaking in-flight themes have royally entertained passengers with cat walk shows to Cirque de Soleil. They have even presented a French version of the vagina monologues! But my personal favourite? The Jade Jagger designed night club version called Jezebel in partnership with MTV, complete with gold seats, pink lighting and even a glitter ball to round it all off so to speak.
Vueling is a thoroughly modern thinking Spanish airline sitting between low cost carriers and scheduled services, proving that value for money flying is not just all about treating passengers like production line cattle. This is an airline with a personality and a visionary CEO who cannily understands that providing passengers with an entertaining and positive economical alternative makes good business sense. And with a 7% increase in revenues and 11% increase in capacity compared with the same quarter last year, the signs are that he is bang on.
Their fleet of 35 aircraft (which includes my lost loves Connie Barjara and Elisenda Masanda named after their 2 millionth and 5 millionth passengers by the way) are state of the art Airbus 320’s and operate out of southern Spain connecting directly to many destinations in Europe including London, as well as north Africa and Russia.
So, bring on my flying night club and crank up that audio. Now, where did I leave my medallion and chest hair wig…..
www.vueling.com

Brookes Adrenaline Walker

2011-01-07T11:55:00.001Z

The feeling was undeniably like walking in butter, made all the better because I knew the shoes were doing good things for the dodgy tendons in my feet. The old adage you get what you pay for comes very much to mind with these babies, because at around £90 they are somewhat costly. But when you consider the physical benefits, you shouldn’t think twice about it.
Brooks has been in the sports high performance shoe business for decades and produces footwear coveted by Olympic standard athletes the world over. The shoes cater for runners and walkers of all pursuits from track and field to road and rough terrain like many of the fashionable brands, the difference with Brooks is It produces footwear biomechanically designed to seriously protect and support all kinds of gait. Collapsed arches, foot pronation, wide sole and general build. The result? A shoe that will provide the support you need to be able to feel comfortable throughout your outdoor activity, whether you’re a long distance runner, a sprinter, or just a normal person like me who enjoys a good walk.

InterRailing for Glampackers - Graz to Brno

2010-10-11T18:28:00.000+01:00

Austria and Czech Republic and home.

21st September

Austria was a delight to watch from the train. Either gentle pasture with the odd collection of sheep, or dramatic valleys and mountains with waterfalls and lakes.
Bad Warersdorf is a natural thermal water resort in central Styria that takes the phrase ‘back to nature' very seriously, with plenty of opportunities for those of you who prefer doing your water sports naked. Quellenhotel, our wellness hotel was one of those places where you just strolled around all day in a terry cloth robe sampling the different saunas and whirlpools as the mood takes. There is something rather liberating about using a Jacuzzi naked, but that's another story.
With both of us feeling very well after our intensive two days of wellness, we moved on the Eisenstadt, the home town of Haydn in Burgenland, Austria's newest region.

For Haydn lovers it is a veritable treasure trove, but there is also an amazing Palace there the former home of yet another European wealth dynasty the Esterhaze family.
The town is very quiet and not somewhere I would recommend for lovers of nightlife, although coming across a show by an ACDC cover band in the community centre was something of a welcome surprise. Not sure if Haydn would have approved though....
The train onwards to the Czech Republic was a simple process with a quick change at WienerNeustadt and we were over the border in no time and on to our final country.

Moravia, the Czech Republic's southern region, has often been overlooked due to the fame of Prague in northern Bohemia, but now, with its wines gaining a global reputation for high quality, (the whites in particular, are simply delicious), the area is growing in popularity.
But there is more to it than wine. The Liechtensteins lived here before getting their own principality, and left behind some of the grandest palaces and gardens you will ever see. The little town of Lednice has the Liechtenstein legacy all over it, with their vast estate and palace dominating the countryside. The extensive gardens and indoor conservatories are jaw dropping with flora and fauna brought in exclusively from all over the world. These people were so filthy rich they even built huge follies all over the place just to make the countryside views more pleasant. Truly astonishing.
Brno is the Czech Republic's second city, and although nowhere near as big as Prague, it has enough of its own architecture and history to make a stay there very worthwhile.
In particular, Speilberg Castle (no relation to the film director) and the Peter and Paul cathedral. The old city has plenty of little narrow streets to get lost in, with lots of bars and restaurants and like most of Moravia, it will provide good value for money.
Czech food may be a little on the heavy side to eat all the time, but there plenty of other cuisines available as alternatives.
So we finally completed our amazing train journey. 2,500 miles, 6 countries and 14 hotels later we could reflect on a fascinating adventure where we met all kinds on interesting people and places and more than a few interesting stations too!

Travelling across Europe by train was an experience that we thoroughly enjoyed and it proves that you don't have to be a young student to ‘get it'. InteRail on today's network offer you a stress free (well most of the time) way to see Europe without the fuss and palaver of airport security.
Would you need to go first class? If you decide to stick just with major cities then the carriages would be a better standard, there are less crowds and you can use the lounges at the stations.

Otherwise, a standard class ticket will be perfectly acceptable. Of course, a luxury hotel is a different matter entirely......

InterRailing for Glampackers - Zagreb to Keszthely, Hungary

2010-10-11T18:23:00.002+01:00

Crossing the border on the train was a little interesting, with no less than three separate passport inspections, one from the Croatian side as a sort of going away present, and then two from our new Hungarian friends, who seemed to eye us with more than a hint of suspicion. Perhaps it was our first class tickets and big suitcases, or more probably, just our vivid imaginations.
Suddenly we were in Hungary, and again, the countryside changed. A couple of changes later at stations with incomprehensible names and the wide waters of Lake Balaton came into view.
The town of Keszthely (pronounced Kesterhay) is during the Summer season, a very busy but elegant resort town that lies on the southern edge of Lake Balaton, one of the biggest inland natural lakes in Europe. It also has a remarkably grand white palace that dominates the town too.
Late September however, proved to be a very quiet time, and with the weather turning wet, it was not perhaps looking its best. The lake though was magnificent and you could see the attraction on a sunny day, taking a cruise or sunbathing by the nearby beaches. The palace is worth a visit, and nearby was a marzipan museum, a porcelain doll collection and a synagogue dating back to the 16th century.

We were guests for a couple of nights at the lovely home of the family Moritz, who run a smart inn just outside the old town centre. Herr Moritz proved to be a charming host, who spoke much better English than our feeble attempts at Hungarian and made us very welcome.
The Moritz house was very comfortable, with lovely rooms, free wi fi and a more than adequate breakfast. Herr Moritz even insisted on dropping us back at the station after our stay.

The restaurants in town are cosy and colourful, all offering hearty traditional regional cuisine with the pick of them being Bacchus a lovely rustic place that's a hotel and its own wine museum. We literally rolled out of there after a mighty meal that was all of £23 for the two of us.
Lake Balaton would certainly be worth a visit if you were in Budapest for more than a few days in summer.

Suggestions:
Guesthaus Morritz, Mora Ferenc Utca 5
Restaurant : Bacchus, Erzsebet kiralyne st 18
Keszthely Palace

InterRailing for Glampackers

2010-09-23T11:04:00.003+01:00

September 16th Split to Zagreb

The Croatian train service is not what you would call state of the art. It may run a direct route to Zagreb, but it takes a lifetime to get there. It just brings things into focus a little about how lucky we are to have comfortable and fast trains.

Still, it was direct, and the countryside was beautiful. Zagreb though, was well worth the wait. Wide boulevards, parks and fountains. There is an old ‘upper' medieval town accessed by steps or a funicular, and a more modern, (modern by medieval standards) ‘lower' town. They told us that the man responsible for Budapest's fine architecture was instrumental in much of Zagreb's lower town development, and it certainly shows. The parks are wide and green, the architecture grand Baroque and you can almost imganie the horse carriages clanging along the streets. What clangs now though are trams, which are free to use in the city centre.
I said on my radio show that Croatia brought us the neck tie, well a Croat also invented the pen, a certain Eduard Penkala and he lived in Zagreb.
We stayed at the sumptuous Regent Esplanade, one of the original Orient Express Hotels where guests stayed the night on their way to Istanbul. They say that civilization begins at the terrace of the Esplanade, and this hotel is truly legendary. Anyone who is anyone has stayed there and today the service is still impeccable and the building an art deco marvel.
Like Split, the prices in Zagreb are very cheap in comparison to the Euro zone, and the food is excellent. This is a city that in my view makes the perfect weekend break. There's that bit of eastern European mystery, it is very safe to walk around, it's great value and nearly everyone speaks English.

Sadly, our 2 nights were over in a trice and we headed on for Hungary, but with great memories of Zagreb. We will return.

Suggestions:
Hotel: The Regent Esplanade
Restaurants: Zinfandel's at The Regent and Pod Grickim Topom (top of the funicular)

Interailing for Glampackers

2010-09-23T11:02:00.003+01:00

September 14th Pescara to Split

Split. The Diocletian Palace. The Riva. The islands. The sun. The Dalmation coastline is truly spectacular and one that will live long in our memory. We took the overnight Blue Line ferry across from Ancona, which is pretty cool as you go to bed in Italy and wake up in Split. In true glampacking style we had a VIP cabin complete with Jacuzzi and separate lounge, which turned out to be very comfortable. Sadly though, the rest of the ferry was a major disappointment. No credit cards were accepted on board (which would have been fine if they had mentioned it beforehand) and only the self service cafeteria out of the many promised eateries was available to us due to "heavy group numbers". The whole ship had an air of gloomy boredom about it, with the mostly Asian crew doing their best to avoid everyone. We did however get to Split on time and in one piece so it did the job.

Split has a lovely feel about it, a slow relaxed attitude that just lets you luxuriate inside its welcoming embrace. The whole old town is practically an open air museum, with the huge roman Diocletian Palace dominating everything. Once inside the walls, every street is seemingly part of it, with bits of ancient floor, or part of a wall wherever you look. There are even bits of it in office buildings. The palace, once the retirement home of Emperor Dioceles, is a wonderfully preserved example of roman architecture and has been lovingly and painstakingly excavated by the Croatian authorities. Split itself is small enough to walk around and navigation is easy as all the signs are in English as well as Croat. There are lots of little windy streets with umbrella adorned cafes on every corner and plenty of eating options, but The Riva, the café-strung promenade right along the waterfront, is the place where people go to see and be seen. The summer months are hot and there is a real Mediterranean feel about the place, with a strong Italian influence, but without Italian prices! The difference in price is astounding, with a good meal costing only about £25 for two of us. Talking of meals, there are many restaurants in the town, often family run places but the quality can be patchy, so get recommendations. We stayed at the Hotel Park, loved by everyone in Split. It is very close to the old town but also next to a lovely small beach with a great café.

Split is in many ways overshadowed by the more popular Dubrovnik further south, but there's no getting round its appeal. There is the wonderful old town of course, but there's also the beautiful islands too and there are frequent ferries to get you over and back.

We loved Split, and you'll love it too.

Suggestions:

Hotel Park

Marjan Hill Café (great views)

Buffet Fife (unglamorous but great food)

Fish Market

The Diocletian Palace

Interailing for Glampackers - September 12th Positano to Pescara

2010-09-17T15:49:00.003+01:00

Leaving the Med west coast, and thankfully the bad weather (and mud slides) behind, we drove our car back towards Naples, but continued on a little way to Caserta where we dropped off the car at the station. (It was far better than trying to negotiate the Naples traffic again).
After just one stop at Foggia, we arrived at the Adriatic resort of Pescara in the lovely region of Abruzzo, one of the lesser known regions of Italy but as far as I am concerned a hidden gem, and long may it continue to be so.
Abruzzo is famous throughout Italy for its pure olive oil, fresh saffron, fantastic lentils, sugared almonds and red Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and white Corfinio wines. It’s a spectacular region, on one side there’s the Gran Sasso and the Maiella mountain ranges and on the other, just miles and miles of golden coastline. It’s also probably the cheapest part of Italy with prices some 20% lower than the rest of the country. Pescara is the main resort town and provides the perfect place to base yourself to see all that Abruzzo has to offer.

The Best Western Plaza was a lovely four star hotel very close to the station but also right on the pedestrianised main street leading down to the sea front. It was a gentle 5 minute stroll to the beach where the umbrellas and beds beckoned.

In the quaint mountain town of Bucchianico near Chieti we met olive oil sommelier Francesca Di Nisio, who has an olive oil museum in an old abandoned mill that she had spent years renovating. Learning all about the art of oil making and the difference between good and bad oils was fascinating.
She also produces delicious extra virgin olive oil and wines from her own vineyards in Chieti under the brand name Cantin Arte

The mountains also harbour some historic towns such as L’Aquila so sadly damaged in an earthquake in 2009, Castel de Monte the location for George Clooney’s film The American, and Sulmona, which apart from its impressive roman remains is also the home of the Italian confectionary, almond confetti. These coloured sugar and chocolate coated almonds are made into floral arrangements and used in weddings throughout Italy. Yes you can eat them too!

Pescara is a great place for a weekend break, and we’ll be back one day soon, but for now, it was time to go on to Ancona and catch the overnight ferry across to Croatia.

Suggestions:
Best Western Plaza Hotel
Olive Oil Museum www.cantinarte.com
Best apertivo: GTime Bar

InteRailing for Glampackers

2010-09-12T22:37:00.002+01:00

September 9th Naples to Positano

There are no rail links to the Amalfi coast so we hired a car and drove the famous film star route along the beautiful Amalfi coast. Of course, the first obstacle was to negotiate the Naples traffic, which is a true test of driving skill believe me. Scooters fly at you from all directions, and other drivers seem to take no notice of any form of road etiquette. It’s a dog eat dog world and we rose to the challenge unscathed.
Just after the port, the autostrada beckoned and we gleefully accepted with both hands so to speak, and in no time we were out of the city and into the Italian countryside. It’s only a few miles further on past Vesuvius and you’ll get to the turn off for the Amalfi scenic route. It’s about now that the true majesty of the coastline kicks in with jaw dropping scenery just about everywhere you look. The route winds around the coastal cliffs and soon you get to see familiar names: Sorrento, Ravelo, Amalfi and our destination, Positano.
Tucked snugly against the cliff face, Positano rises from the crystal blue sea with properties packed tightly together like a magnet rising up the mountainside. It is truly a glorious sight to behold. Thankfully the narrow road is one way through the town, with hotels and restaurants seemingly perched impossibly against the rock face.
We were staying in the aubergo of Casa Albertina a privately owned hotel high up the bluff with stunning views across the town and the Med below. This is without doubt one of the most romantic places on earth.
The town itself has narrow streets lined with designer shops and restaurants and down at the small beach, the old church still stands proud, oblivious to all the tourist trappings around it.
Yes Positano is very commercial, and expensive, and there is more Prada than Carbonara, but there is no mistaking its charm. The famous coast road is stunning and Amalfi and Ravelo are only a few kilometres away. There are trips to Capri or to the Emerald Grotto, a naturally colourful cave system, but for me a couple of nights were more than enough.
The highlight was lunch at a rustic and traditional restaurant called la Trigliata in the mountain village of Montepesuto just a 10 minute bus ride up and around the cliffs. No menu on offer, just four courses of traditional food with wine, water and coffee all included for €35 and a fabulous view all the way down to Capri to boot. Mama in the kitchen and kids serving, a real family business.

Suggestions:

Hotel: Casa Albertina
Restaurant: la Trigliata

InteRailing for Glampackers

2010-09-12T22:36:00.003+01:00

September 7th Bologna to Naples

The futuristic Frecciarossa express shot us across Italy 300 miles from the north to the Mediterranean in just under 4 hours stopping only at Florence and Rome and once again we had an easy seat reservation in first class using our InteRail passes and just a nominal €10 reservation fee.

Naples, the birthplace of pizza, is fast, furious and fun and a little over exaggerated on the crime front in my opinion. Yes, there are lots of people and the possibility for petty crime is there for all to see. You just need to be aware, don’t flash around any fancy jewellery and stick to the main streets. In other words, be cautious as you would in any major city. That said, the bay dominated by the towering visage of Vesuvius is simply stunning, and the pizzas are delicious by the way.
The old city is a warren of narrow streets and by day is well worth exploring. There is a church seemingly around every corner. The city stretches upwards into the high bluffs and taking the funicular is an experience, but there’s also an efficient metro system and plenty of cheap buses.
We stayed up high in the embassy district at the Grand Hotel Parker’s, once used by the American army during the war as their HQ. Today it is a five star hotel with a roof terrace offering a fabulous view of the whole Bay.
Naples is the best place to base yourself if you want to visit Pompeii, Vesuvius and Herculaneum. Just a 20 minute train ride away, the famously preserved Roman sites offer an amazing glimpse into how ancient families lived out their lives before Vesuvius exploded and changed their lives forever.
The cities are incredibly preserved even down to the chariot ruts in the stone roads. They both met their demise in different ways, which makes is what makes them so interesting. Pompeii had hot ash and smoke rain down on it whilst Herculaneum was buried in mud ensuring its organic matter like wood was perfectly preserved. They both simply have to be seen. It is well worth buying the services of one of the numerous guides that will build up a group of ten for around €10 each.

Naples is good value by Italian Mediterranean standards and you can eat quite cheaply in many of the local restaurants. Out favourite was Di Matteo, a pizzeria in the old town. No nonsense service and great food, but after 9pm you might be lining up in the street for a while.

InteRailing for Glampackers

2010-09-12T22:34:00.001+01:00

September 5th San Remo to Bologna

The journey across to Bologna from the west coast is memorable for two reasons. You get to experience some dramatic mountainous countryside, which is just as well because the journey takes nearly four hours and over 12 stops on the local service to Milan. The old train was packed to the gills with people and luggage including two American vets on their way home from Afghanistan and enjoying a bit of R&R.
However, once you reach Milan, it’s just another hour to Bologna on the new Frecciarossa express.
Bologna. Old and wise. A university since the 11th century. They say Bologna is known for three things. The ‘fat’ people, because of the glorious pasta and rich food, the red brick architecture and similar political affiliations, and finally the ancient seat of knowledge, the University. Then again, petrol heads may just know about the odd nearby car manufacturer or two like Ferrari or Lambourghini
It’s a city that once was contained inside a wall, but now there are just the gates and towers remaining. In fact, Bologna’s own twin towers, (the two ancient towers that sit next to each other in the centre of the city) are a constant reminder of its medieval past. As are the 70 miles of canals that pass under the old streets and buildings, the conduits for merchants coming in from Venice and the Adriatic, not mention the locals who used them as sewers!
Today, you can have a great time exploring the underground canals and we took in a guided tour that took us under the city in rubber dinghies along the ancient walls where roman bridges and Etruscan walls were visible along with the old toilet holes in the tunnel ceilings!
We had a pasta cookery lesson too, in the Secchia Scuola Bolognese run by the famous chef Alessandra Spisni. We learnt to make fresh pasta from just flour and eggs, and shaped it to form tortellini, tortelloni and also tagliatelle, the traditional pasta to mix with bolognese sauce which is just called ragu in Italy. Don’t mention spaghetti in this town!
Bologna’s cobbled streets, churches porticos and palazzos are completely overshadowed by nearby Florence, but a must see if you are in the region. There are no tourist restaurants, you’ll find the locals eating everywhere, but try out the aperitif evening buffets, where for a little extra on your drinks, you can eat as much of the snack buffet food as you like. Or better still, get some fresh food from the daily market vendors on via Pescherie Vecchie and take it into the Torre degli Garisenda for some great local wines. It’s been there since the 11th century, and is full of locals drinking and eating their own brought in food.

Hotel: Porta San Mamolo
Underground Canal tours:
Cookery school: Secchia Scuola Bolognese

InteRailing for Glampackers

2010-09-06T19:04:00.002+01:00

September 1st to Nimes

St. Pancras was impressive. Like a grand old lady who’d suddenly rediscovered her youth, she was all decked out in her modern finery but still held a timeless veneer. There was even a splattering of quality merchants to get us in a continental mood. It’s funny, but we’re so conditioned to a lifetime of airport security, that turning up just 40 minutes before we were due to leave is something of a novelty.
The 8.05 Eurostar to Paris whisked us silently away across the channel and by late morning we were in Paris.

Paris has style, elegance and beauty. For us though, it was lunch. A stone’s throw from the Gard de Lyon where our next train awaited, itself a few stops on the Metro from Eurostar’s terminus at the Gard du Nord, we found a small brasserie just opening for the lunchtime crowd. Light food washed down with a glass of wine, of course.

By 4pm we were on the TGV using our interail pass and well and truly deep into France. It only takes just under three hours to get from Paris in the north to Nimes in the south, but there is a world of difference.

The Gard region of Languedoc is a delight and at its centre, Nimes with it’s curious homage to Spain’s bullfighting, sangria and flamenco is pretty special. And there are Roman remains. Not just any old remains mind, but only the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world. The gladiators may have long gone, but today, over 20,000 people still go there to watch spectacular events like bullfights or concerts. Lit up at night, the place takes on an almost mystical feel, and I swear, right there, you can almost jump thousands of years into the past Talking of the past, just a half hour drive away is the stunning Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct built in 20 BC standing some 160 feet high and over 900 feet long.
Also nearby, the magical Petit Camargue, a marshy world with its free to roam birds, white horses and bulls and the ancient walled city of Ainge Morte and down by the coast, the charming seaside resort of Roi

We had three delightful days here, enjoying the sights and sounds of a region so wonderfully French but curiously Spanish too.

The Royal Hotel
Pont du Gard,

September 4th to San Remo, Italy.

What a day. Traversing the width of the amazing French southern coast from east to west to begin our Italian leg. A quick stop in Avignon to sing the song at the Pont, and a peek at the Papal Palace and then back on the train through Marseilles, Monaco, Cannes, Nice, and finally into Italy at Ventemillia and our overnight stop at San Remo.
The glorious Royal San Remo hotel looks down on the town and the wide blue Med from its lofty perch way up on the cliff, a well deserved rest for weary travellers. Unbridled luxury amid a lovely old town.
Food highlight here, dinner at the wonderfully quirky Taverna a local restaurant run by Natale and Margarhita. Everything fresh, and everything top quality. We ended up drinking together once everybody had left, discussing politics and food, and watching his waiter’s magic tricks. A magical evening then all around.

Dirty Toilet Doors

2010-04-22T17:33:00.002+01:00

Am I really the only person in the whole world who realises that toilet doors only open inwards?
I spend time washing my hands only to have to open a germ laden door with my nicely clean hands in order to leave. What's the point.
There should be a law banning the use of inswinging doors in public toilets.
Can someone tell me the reason for this phenomenon or is it just to get people like me mad?

Diving With Dolphins in Eilat

2010-03-04T18:53:00.001Z

Well, it had to happen sooner or later. I finally did something wonderous - no disappointing commercial rip off, no over hyped experience that failed to live up to the billing, just a good old fashioned great value experience that I will never forget. Diving with dolphins in Eilat's Dolphin Reef is simply stunning. It was 30 minutes of sheer pleasure from start to finish. A privileged opportunity to see these fantastic creatures close up and see how they do truly enjoy human interaction.
Read my story at www.thetraveleditor.com for all the details.

How to exploit budget airlines

2010-02-23T12:54:00.001Z

I did a radio interview the other day about budget airlines. The presenter was insisting that they catch people with hidden charges, or charge customers for everything. The facts are simple to me. You use a budget airline to get somewhere as cheaply as possible, so don't expect to be treated like a royal. Remember too that these airlines are commercial ventures. They are not charitable in any way, and want to make as much money as possible, so just play them at their own game and you'll be a winner.
1.When you book a flight, just take your time and read through the text carefully, unticking any box that does not directly apply to your flight.
2. Do not use their currency exchange system as you will lose out on the convertion.
3. Organise your own travel insurance
4. Pay with a pre paid credit card to avoid the credit card surcharge (the Electron card dodge has now been scuppered).
5. Be wary of the dubious speedy boarding system as there are many airports that will not get you direct access to the aircraft, so you will be paying for a speedy bus boarding!
6. Finally, if there are two of you travelling, find an empty three seats and leave the middle one free. You will be surprised how many people avoid sitting there.

V&A Lecture

2010-02-21T19:41:00.000Z

I gave a lecture on New York last Saturday at the Victoria & Albert museum as part of their World Cities series. Very well attended and very well received even if I say so myself. Part of my presentation was around the growing speakeasy culture in Manhattan and the opening of The High Line walkway on the west side.
By the way, have you heard about the new neighbourhoods in Manhattan? NOMAD is North of Madison, and DUMBO is Down Under Madison Bridge Overpass.

Snow fun in The Pyrenees

2010-02-21T19:36:00.001Z

Got back safe and sound from a press trip to The Pyrenees. Visited two lovely resorts, Font-Romeu and Les Angles, right on the Spanish border. Actually one of my clues for the radio show this time was that this is an area where three languages are spoken. So, obviously Spanish and French, but hearing French people speaking Catalan was a real surprise for me.
Both resorts were very family friendly and specialised in activities for non skiers, so we learnt cross country skiing and snowshoeing. Had some fun climbing around an 'I Go Ape' style tree course and spent an afternoon in a naturally heated thermal spring.

The Pyrenees for Non Skiers

2010-02-01T10:27:00.001Z

Today I am off to the Catalan Pyrenees to write about snow activities for non-skiers.
This has huge potential. Just think of how many people would love to get involved in doing snow fun but feel intimidated joining with experienced skiers.
Looking forward to it.

Airport Security

2010-02-01T08:48:00.000Z

Don't get me wrong, I am all for safe and secure travel. What really annoys me is that there are many airports in the UK now that are charging passengers a fee to use a 'fast lane' service. This fee can be anything from £3 to £10 per passenger depending on the time of day or how busy the airport is.
This, in my view is scandalous.
What makes this even worse is that there are incentives from on airport services that offer free passes to use the 'fast lane', such as airport parking or even some airlines trying to promote a London service.

What happens if no one is using the 'fast lane' then? Does the machine in there lay unused whilst we are all standing in a long line waiting for the other 'not fast' lane to become available?
Do the staff running that machine sit about doing nothing while their colleagues are working frantically processing the normal passenger traffic?
And what about Bodyscanners then. Are they going to be used in addition to existing security are will they replace the current system? I can see it now, a 'fast lane' service for the bodyscanners too, with of course higher charges because the technology is that much more complicated!

How dare airports try to earn profits from what is a Government sanctioned security procedure. Why should they profit from terrorism?

It is all very wrong.

Where in the World Am I?

2010-01-25T12:52:00.000Z

You really must tune into BBC Leeds and listen to my 'Where in the World Am I' series of live travelogues on the Late Show. The next one is on Tuesday February 2nd 2010 at 10.20pm. I will be giving out some mystery clues and you will get the chance to contact the station with your guesses! Then, Shourjo Sarker the presenter, will get me to reveal where I am and chat with me about the destination. So, where in the world will I be?