Panama. It's tropical heaven without the crowds

Early morning and the ceaseless activity on the canal continues as it's done every hour of every day for the last 50 years. A huge ship inches its way along the lock, no more than a few inches to spare on either side. Just like a giant version of the river locks we've all tried at one time or another. Time is money here and there's no shortage of customers going one way or the other, with over 14,000 ships passing through last year, each one paying a sizeable sum into Panama's now very deep pockets. It's a highly profitable business and once the canal expansion is completed, it will be even busier.

Inching through the Panama Canal (c) Andy Mossack

For such a small country, an isthmus wedged between the Atlantic/Caribbean  on one side and the Pacific on the other, Panama has a lot to say for itself. After all, without the use of its extraordinary canal, we'd have to pay a lot more and wait a lot longer for our goods. But Panama has been a strategically vital port ever since the 1500s when the Spanish conquistadors used it to transport most of their plunder back home.

Any trip you take to Panama must include a visit to the canal, and the Miraflores Lock in particular, which has a large visitor centre and a spectacular viewing gallery. It's come a long way since construction began in the late 1800's when over 22,000 workers perished, mostly from mosquito borne malaria. These days, the man made islands and waterways created from all that digging are a haven for birding and wildlife and you'll get a great day out watching ships and taking walks in the surrounding rainforest.




The beauty of Portobelo (c) Andy Mossack

But it's not just about the canal. Panama may be on the thin side but it's packed with diversity wherever you go. Think about it; it was once part of Costa Rica (cue instant images of swaying palms and beaches) and where else can you go and visit two huge oceans just 50 miles apart. The Pacific coast, is lined with mangrove  forest and impressive beaches (many belonging to  the 1,000 islands that sit off the coast), and it's the commercial centre of the country with the high rises of Panama City, the national capital, over here too  However, there's more rainfall on the Caribbean side, better looking beaches and higher temperatures, but far less infrastructure, so don't expect fast roads and busy towns.

The country is dripping with history? Portobelo on the Caribbean side may look like a sleepy coastal town these days, but after Columbus discovered the bay in 1502  it grew to become one of the most important ports in the world, literally teeming with Spanish galleons laden with gold. Amazingly, the Spanish 17th and 18th century fortifications are still there, albeit in a state of neglect in many sections, not surprising when you consider you're free to walk all over them and there is very little money available for much needed restoration. Portobelo comes alive once a year when thousands make a pilgrimage every October 21 to the 17th century  Iglesia de San Félipe church for the Festival de Cristo Negro (Festival of the Black Christ).

Joining Portobelo under UNESCO protection is Fuerte San Lorenzo, a stunning 16th century ruined fort  high up on a cliff overlooking the mouth of Chagres River as it flows into the Caribbean. None other than messers Henry Morgan and Sir Francis Drake trod these very stones as the fort was Panama's main defence from pirate attacks.

 

And what about the wonderful cobbled streets and crumbling edifices of Casco Viejo, the fine old town close to Panama City  which took on the mantle of the capital city when Henry Morgan destroyed the original in 1671. It's gradually getting restored now and taking a stroll around the ancient streets, you can begin to see how magnificent some of those old building really were.  

Panama is much more than a canal. It will surprise you, I guarantee it.

Panama Tourism www.visitpanama.com

  

Nashville. The Heart of America's Music Triangle

I'm sitting at a grand old Steinway in RCA's Studio B on Music Row. As it happens, it's the very piano Elvis tinkered on when he was working out arrangements for his band.  Debbie, something of a Nashville treasure in her own right, is telling me a true story about one of his sessions. “It was late, and everyone was getting tired but Elvis wanted to do one more song. He got the lights turned right down low, went up to the mike, closed his eyes and started singing.”   As she’s telling me this, she turns those same lights down, presses a button and Elvis sounds like he’s right next to me singing Lonesome Tonight.

 

 

 

This is one of those goose bump moments.

They say there’s music in the very walls of RCA studio B, which I wouldn’t doubt for a minute when you consider over 1,000 number one hits were recorded right here. Roy Orbison, Dolly Parton, Jim Reeves The Everly Brothers and Elvis head up a very impressive list of artists. Anyone with the slightest hint of music in their veins will feel a stirring of emotion here, but this is what Nashville does to you.  Everywhere you go and everyone you meet has a story to tell. Session legend Joe Chambers for example, soon to open The Musicians Hall of Fame, his own museum dedicated to the many talented session players who delivered the music behind the hits, has a belly full of them. "Let's face it " he says "if you found out Jimi Hendrix never played on his hits, you'll sure want to know who did!" Joe's seemingly endless supply of amazing tales has me mesmerised over our lunch together and then, as we part, he throws out another; "That corner of Wedgewood and 8th right by the lights? Roy Orbison lived in a small apartment there and wrote Pretty Woman when he looked out the window and saw a girl walking past."

And then with a wave he's gone.

I come for a peek at another new museum soon to open. Johnny Cash is naturally a legend in Nashville, but surprisingly, there's been no official museum since Johnny and June's home in Hendersonville, The House of Cash, closed back in 1999. I'm amazed and delighted to find his brother Tommy waiting to show me around. Due to open November 2012, this new museum in a vintage red brick building in downtown will contain many artefacts donated by the Cash family members and through the efforts of legendary memorabilia collector Bill Miller. Just the facade and gift shop is finished but it doesn't take a lot of imagination to see how this 18,000 square foot of space will be used. As we walk around, Tommy tells me how as Johnny's younger brother, he got to hang out with musical legends;  "Elvis, Carl Perkins, Charlie Rich, they were all friends with Johnny and we all used to go out together. Elvis gave me a red and black jacket which I cherished, but lost it after I got drafted."

 

 

Not far from here, the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum beckons.40,000 square feet chronicling everything from the roots of country to today's cross over stars. It's latest exhibit is exploring the Bakersfield Sound; where artists such as Merle Haggard and Buck Owens pioneered a honky tonk Californian twist on the more traditional Nashville music. I even have time to wander round a small exhibit on Patsy Kline, and listen to a recording of just her singing with everything else stripped out. Pure and magical.

 

 

No trip to Nashville would be complete without a night at the Grand Ole Opry, the world's longest running radio show. Touring around backstage I bump into Billy Ray Cyrus arriving for his headline spot; proof the Opry is still a show that pulls in the big guns. Then again, attending the Country Music Awards and watching Bonnie Raitt, John Hiatt, Emmylou Harris and Richard Thompson wasn't too shabby either.

 

  

Spending time in Nashville has been a fascinating journey through musical history. It's a place that's constantly reinventing itself yet still fiercely celebrates its glorious heritage. For me though, it was back to Elvis' old piano for another quick tinkle.

Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau www.visitmusiccity.com

 Andy's professional web site www.andymossack.co.uk

 

 

 

Cruising the Baltic with Regent Seven Seas Voyager. Can you really leave your wallet at home?

So I'm standing outside my room, dressed in a fluffy white robe, a glass of red in one hand and a canapé in the other, making small talk with the immaculately dressed couple from the suite next door. Spotting an American accent, I casually ask  "Where are you from then?" to which they reply, " Oh, central London, we live next door to Harrods. Are you familiar with it?" This was the moment I decided the fluffy robe was probably not my best look and mentally cursing for even thinking about wearing it, but then again this was the famous Regent  'block party' a whirlwind doorstep tour by Captain John Mcneill to share an informal toast with his loyal subjects as we mingle together in the corridors in whatever mode of attire we desire.

Regent Seven Seas cruises are all classed as "six star", an all-inclusive, all suite luxury experience where everything is included; all drinks, meals in any of the restaurants, unlimited excursions, all staff gratuities, 24 hour room service and even flights and transfers to your ship. Regent claims it's possible to cruise and leave your wallet at home and as I love a challenge, I'm on a mission to see just how true that claim might be.

The Baltic is an extraordinary sea bounded by Russia, Germany, Sweden, Denmark, Latvia, Estonia, Finland, Lithuania and Poland (and on this ten day cruise you get to visit all of them except Poland and Lithuania) and five capitals - Copenhagen, Stockholm, Riga, Tallinn and Helsinki. Add Saint Petersburg to the mix and you're in for a pretty diverse cruising experience.

The Seven Seas Voyager dominates Copenhagen's port skyline as I arrive at the terminal having spent a couple of nights in Denmark's delightful capital. The retail therapy of Stroget,(perhaps the longest pedestrian shopping street in the world), the medieval cobblestones and canals of Christianshavn, the Jewish Museum designed by Daniel Liebeskind, the architect behind New York's new World Trade Centre site and the gastronomic delights of the city's 13 Michelin rated restaurants including NOMA, voted best restaurant in the world three years running.

But now Voyager beckons; her 12 decks looking remarkably clear considering most of her 700 passengers and 450 crew are already aboard. My bags disappear as if by magic, whisked away with a whispered promise of unification in my suite. "it's just luggage sir, not for you to worry about anymore". So I don't, I move on, check in and get my next surprise; my suite has been switched to Penthouse level. No standard 350 metre suite with balcony, king size bed and marble bathroom for me, I've got a butler on tap, an IPad to play with, an espresso machine and Hermes accessories on top of the standard L'Occitane fare, not to mention priority status for booking the two specialist restaurants on board and all the excursions and an hour's free satellite internet access.

This is all going rather well then.

Still basking in the glow of my newfound Penthouse status and just because I can I celebrate with two lunches from the three venues on offer. A spectacular 3 course buffet in Voyager's Italian restaurant La Veranda (which doubles as an excellent fine dining bistro in the evening) and another nibble or two by the poolside buffet  just for the hell of it. While we're on the subject of food, Voyager has five restaurants to choose from, Compass Rose, the main dining room; the aforementioned La Veranda and pool side bistros and two intimate fine dining venues, Prime 7 and Signatures which are reservation only  due to their limited seating. That said, there is a bountiful choice of fish and vegetarian options at all the venues and a seemingly endless free supply of fine wines, cocktails and spirits to wash it all  down with. Fully certified kosher and glatt kosher menus including wines can be provided to any passenger on request before you travel.

 I work off my two lunches by exploring the ship's twelve decks on foot, although there are plenty of lifts to silently whisk you up and down. Just one level above the pool and Jacuzzis I find the golf nets and jogging track; down a few levels, the impressively two tiered Constellation Theatre where  the nightly shows take place; the Canyon Ranch Spa and fitness centre where you can top up your wellness have a facial and indulge in daily group fitness activities; the Horizon Lounge, perfect for an afternoon tea or a late night cocktail; the Observation Lounge with its floor to ceiling wrap around windows, just the place for some romantic star gazing and decks 4 and 5 at the very heart of Voyager, the casino, the nightclub, the boutique shopping and internet, and main reception where all the on shore guided excursions are booked. Back in my suite, I browse through them, picking out a Jewish heritage tour of Riga as a potential highlight and with a quick call I'm booked in. As it happens I'm keen to see the sights, but if I didn't fancy leaving the ship, I could immerse myself in a full programme of organised activities or just lay on a lounger and soak up the sun.

Each evening the ship sets sail and waking up in a new country every day I find myself quickly settling into a routine mainly based around eating; it's hard not to as the service and the quality of the food is so impressive. An excursion around the delightful medieval Gotland port of Visby in Sweden is marred by my nagging urge not to miss lunch. I make it back. Just. Then a planned afternoon enjoying the quaint German beach resort of Warnemunde was abandoned once I realised it would interfere with an afternoon tea extravaganza involving 35 different types of cheesecake. Even my butler Mark insists on bringing champagne and canapés for me to snack on my balcony in the early evening before dinner. He is quite something. Silently adjusting my in room amenities in line with my particular trends. Noticing for example I only drink still water, he dispensed with the fizzy; seeing I enjoy espresso he brings additional sachets of coffee. Intuitive service doesn't get any better than this.

.A  tour of the galleys with Executive Head Chef Jonathan Smid reveals the sheer scale of the food operation on a cruise. "I have a team of 85 chefs and it's all about logistics" he reveals" we go through over 4,000 bottles of wine and 12,000 eggs a week and 500 pounds of fish and 475 steaks a day. There's no finer thing for me than getting off at each port and visiting the local markets to buy fresh produce; in fact this morning  I just bought 20 kilos of Pelmeni mushroom dumplings." My stomach begins to rumble once again.

I share a dinner table one night with Roger and Suzanne from north west London, seasoned cruisers also enjoying the Regent all inclusive experience for the first time. "The biggest difference for us is the lack of crowds in the restaurants" says Roger "No queues or sittings for dinner, no pushing and shoving at the buffets, just relaxed and sophisticated dining"

Learning a lesson from my recent Block Party experience, I dress casually elegant and join some of my fellow passengers for an evening down in the Horizon Lounge listening to a highly talented Filipino trio sing the Great American Songbook, a feat of wonderment in itself. I sit alongside Larry, a gentleman from Texas and like all Texans he is a very big man indeed (I get a flash in my head of Chef Jonathan's daily steak total suddenly seeming a little understated). Big Larry has been on all three of Regent's luxury 6 star fleet and assures me "Yes sir, they are a fine bunch of boats".

So is this really a cruise that includes everything? So far, I have wined and dined myself into a stupor, been on five excursions and had my butler at my beck and call without shelling out a bean. Yes, there are one or two chinks in the Regent 'all inclusive' armour. Spa treatments are chargeable extras, as are external calls and satellite internet fees and the more extravagant excursions such as a guided day trip to Berlin or a high speed train tour to Moscow. These are optional extras though and not really counted as part of the all in deal.

However, when the taxi took me to the airport for my free flight home, I was convinced this would be it, the chance to pay the fare myself. Instead, with a dismissive wave, the driver tells me "It's Ok sir, Regent's taken care of it."

All-inclusive cruises in the Baltic/Northern Europe with Regent in 2013 start from £3,499 per person (based on two people sharing an H category deluxe balcony suite).  A 10-night cruise between Stockholm and Copenhagen in 2013 starts from £4,869 per person.  Fares include: return flights and transfers (Business Class flights for bookings in Penthouse Suites and above), free and unlimited shore excursions, all fine dining, beverages and gratuities and 1 night pre-cruise hotel stay.

Reservations: 02380 682280.  www.rssc.com

 

New Orleans takes another hurricane pounding

I visited New Orleans last July for the very first time, and loved every minute of it. The characters, the music, the history, the food, all combine to provide a very unique experience. There is still a lot of recovery work outside of The French Quarter that is being undertaken from the devastation of Katrina, so I was deeply saddened to hear of the city getting hit once again,  7 years on to the day.
Fortunately this time around the new defences stood firm although once again, thos people in outlying districts face more harships and repairs.

There is an amazing spirit and resolve in New Orleans and it is heartening to see Hollywood stars who hail from the area  putting a lot of finance and time into helping it recover. Too all my new friends over there, let's hope this latest set back doesn't make too much of a dent in the recovery process.

I left my heart in Sedona

I was in Sedona, Arizona last week and although it may well be overdeveloped and perhaps a little too touristy for my liking, it is without doubt a beautiful part of the world. The iron infused mountains are simply stunning and I was fortunate to see them close up from a helicopter. Not any old chopper, I might add, but one with no door panels - just me and fresh air on both sides! it was quite simply one of the most breathtaking things I have experienced and should be a must do on anyone's checklist for a trip to Sedona.
There is still a new age hippie thing going on there in spite of its wealthy residents, and I have to admit, there is something very spiritual about those glorious red rocks. May the vortex be with you.

5 Live interview Costa Concordia

Following on from my News 24 appearance I got a call from 5 Live to do an interview following the Concordia disaster. It's funny how suddenly travel writers become experts in cruise ship construction, fleet history and cruise liner procedures!
Having said that, I knew somehow my experiences on numerous ship bridges getting instruction on ship handling and manouvers would come in handy one day.
I'm pretty certain I was one of the first journalists to come out and say it sadly had to be human error.
You can listen to my interview on my website www.andymossack.co.uk

BBC News 24

Had an early morning call on the golf course from the BBC to appear on the midday bulletin, so as the round wasn't going too well it was a good excuse to leave.
Rushed home for a quick shower and change and waited for the car to take me to the studios. When I arrived there was no time to dally, it was straight into make up, a quick drink of water and I was on.

The story was about Britain's £30million investment marketing GB around the world inviting friends and family to visit us during our Olympic and Royal Jubilee year.

It always amazes me how quick people criticise any initiative that costs money. Yes it is a lot of money, but let's face it, firstly how many opportunities do you get to put your country in front of the world wide audience the Olympics will provide?  And second, we have a royal family, and we should celebrate that fact. The Diamond Jubilee is landmark event, so just for once let's enjoy this year and stop moaning about the cost.

It was certainly good to put my point across on national television. Kind of cathartic.